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Factors for slow broadband


kurt.santo

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Unfortunatly, no. You pretty much need to try out your connection with as least nodes as possible, going down the chain to see where the problem might be.First, try to use your coputer directly, i.e. without the router. If it's not OK there, the reson is your ISP, or their cable. Either way, you need to call them about it, or change your ISP if they can't do anything about it.Being an ISP to a small network (well... sort of), I can tell you that if you're willing to pay for the hardware involved, you'll have your internet running at top notch in no time. Otherwise, you need to call at regular intervals (once or twice every day) until they do it.If it's all OK at that point, try it with another computer behind the same router, and with the same cable. If it's still slow, try to use another jack for the cable at the router (try each one), and try to use a new cable (again in each jack). If it's still too slow, you need to adjust something in your router (I don't know exactly what - it depends; a new firmware is usually a good thing to do in this case), or you simply need a new router.If it's all OK there, the problem is in your computer. It could be you need to adjust something in your settings, or your might need a new (ideally more powerful) LAN card.

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First, try to use your coputer directly, i.e. without the router. if you're willing to pay for the hardware involved, you'll have your internet running at top notch in no timemight need a new (ideally more powerful) LAN card.
boen_robot,Thanks for your input. I fear it is the broadband companies fault. We have two computers behind the router and sometimes the internet is fine and sometimes it is not. In some cases it is enough to disconnect from wireless network, in other cases you have to restart router. Usually this makes it work for a time. I kind of accepted it in the past, but now they installed some new servers (they said something about Google technologies) and the whole schebang is just awfully bad 80% of the time.Concerning your reply I have few questions:What do you mean by to use the computer without the router. How could I access the internet then?Also, what did you mean by "if I am willing to pay for the hardware involved"? Do you mean to have your own internet connection as such? How would that be possilbe?Very stupid question: is a LAN card needed to access a wireless network?Would be great to receive some more feedback from you...Kurt
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I didn't realized we were talking wireless here. You just doubled the possible reasons, especially if your ISP is giving your internet wirelessly too.By the "hardware involved" I was referring to switches and cables, which are needed for wired networks. They are cheap enough, yet in large quantities they become a huge burden for every ISP (that's exactly the reason wired networks take more to get a coverage in an area - they need the hardware, and places where they can safely store the switches). If your ISP delivers you a wireless internet straight ahead (no cable to plug into the router), then there are no hardware costs.Your router should already be adjusted in a way that it will receive internet from the ISP, and pass the traffic down between its clients "privately". What you should try to do is to connect your computer directly to the ISP, making it appear as the router if necessary i.e. adjust your IP, SM, DG, DNS, and MAC adresses to the ones the ISP gave you for your router.A wireless receiver is still a LAN card. Only wireless. So a new wireless LAN card may be a solution (thought that rarely is the case).If your internet is running at a good speed sometimes, and sometimes not, it may also be due to the visibility between your wireless LAN and wireless router. Any wall in the way reduces the signal's strenght by half of what's left of the signal, and a concrete wall demolishes it (almost?) completely. Having to reset the connection is another symptom of this.However, if you also need to reset your wireless router, it seems that the router is the problem (provided the network DOES work everytime you reset it). Your wireless router may be overloaded (if you and/or the other computer make too much similtanious requests, "too much" not being well defined OR if your internet connection is being used by a third party), or the router may have become defficient (any electrical surge where you live? we sure get them a lot where I live). Either way, a new router is the best solution to this problem.

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making it appear as the router if necessary i.e. adjust your IP, SM, DG, DNS, and MAC adresses to the ones the ISP gave you for your router.
boen_robot,Thanks for your input. There are actually two walls in between (router and computers are even on two separate floors), although I have to say the walls are more like paper in our astonishing well build house;-) Did not realise that this could be the issue as you can pick up signals from other sources in this area (but then I obviously do not know how good the connection would be).Regarding what you said above: How would I ajust my laptop, so it appears to be the router? All those addresses were never touched by me and I do not know where to start (and I do not want to mess it up neither)....Kurt
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am still on the broadband problem. Have one more question:just today I found out that your usb adapter or wireless card in laptop need to match the range of wireless router. We have a Netgear DG834GT router and on the laptop an Intel Wireless 2200BG Network Connection. The pc has a Belkin G+ USB adapter. Is this a problem? Would we also need to have the same manufacturer?Kurt

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I've never heard anything about "range". The card and the router need to be communication with the same spec, so you can't have a router broadcasting using 802.11A, and have a card trying to pick up signals for 802.11G, they both need to be using the same spec. Most routers and cards have support for more then one. Manufacturer doesn't matter, that's why we have specifications that everyone can follow.

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boen_robot,Thanks for your input. There are actually two walls in between (router and computers are even on two separate floors), although I have to say the walls are more like paper in our astonishing well build house;-) Did not realise that this could be the issue as you can pick up signals from other sources in this area (but then I obviously do not know how good the connection would be).Regarding what you said above: How would I ajust my laptop, so it appears to be the router? All those addresses were never touched by me and I do not know where to start (and I do not want to mess it up neither)....Kurt
When you double click the network icon (or go to "Start > Control Panel > Network Connections > %TheNameOfTheInternetConnection%"), you should see the singnal strength. If it's anything less than "Good", then visibility is the reason your internet suffers. There's no cure for that. It's the price you pay for having a wireless internet (as the price for a wired internet is having to be stucked at a certain point where the end of the cable is).As to how you adjust the Wireless to present itself as the router, first you need to find out what your router's settings are. How exactly do you do that is router dependant, but in general, you'd type something like "192.168.1.1" to go the router control panel, type in the router's username and password. Usually it's Username: Admin; Password: Admin; by default, but if your ISP have set it up, they'll be the ones to know the username and password (they're unlikely to have left it unprotected like that). After you log in, look for "WAN settings". If it says "Static IP", write down the IP, Subnet Mask, Default Gateway and DNS written below it. If it's "Dynamic IP" or "DHCP", you don't need to write anything. Then, look for something like "MAC Clone". Write down the MAC address that is said to be the current one. You now have all the information you need.After that, disconnect the router. If you have a "Static IP", read on, otherwise skip to the next paragraph. On your computer, go to the network status (like above), click "Properties", double click "Internet Protocol (TCP/IP)". Select the "Use the following IP adress" radio button, and type in all the information you wrote from the router (except the MAC, since you can't write it here). Click "OK" on both windows to confirm the changes. Go back up to the "Properties" window. Click the "Configure..." button at the top. Select the "Advanced" tab. Look for something like "Network Address", "Physical Address" or simply "MAC Address" and enter the MAC from the router in the text field (without any ":", "-", or whatever notation the router might be using). Click "OK" on both windows to confirm the change.Connect to your ISP. If your ISP is delivering you internet by a wire, plug the cable into the network card of the computer. Note that in this case, the addresses on the LAN card are the ones that need adjusting, not the wireless LAN.
am still on the broadband problem. Have one more question:just today I found out that your usb adapter or wireless card in laptop need to match the range of wireless router. We have a Netgear DG834GT router and on the laptop an Intel Wireless 2200BG Network Connection. The pc has a Belkin G+ USB adapter. Is this a problem? Would we also need to have the same manufacturer?Kurt
No - manufacturer doesn't need to be the same. That's what "standards" are for. As for the range thing - for best results (i.e. longest distance of excellently working internet), the wireless receiver should have "at least" the rage of the router, but not necessarily "the same" i.e. it could be greather. Even if this is not the case, you can still achieve decent speeds if the receiver and router were directly seeing each other and/or if the router is within the receiver's range.
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Are you in the US and using ComCast? It has been reported that Comcast has started filtering traffic which is slowing things down they also are cripppling speed on encrypted traffic. You can thank the RIAA for that, it will stop illegal music downloads, or so they say. I can't say anymore, I get too worked up.

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you'd type something like "192.168.1.1" to go the router control panel, type in the router's username and password
Where would you type that in? Also, I am fearing I might not get this kind of information. I am in the UK and use Sky for my broadband. When I called them today to ask if it might help if I bought a router with a longer range, they told me that I can only use their router as it has build in security that no one should know. Will still try to call them tomorrow...Kurt
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Where would you type that in? Also, I am fearing I might not get this kind of information. I am in the UK and use Sky for my broadband. When I called them today to ask if it might help if I bought a router with a longer range, they told me that I can only use their router as it has build in security that no one should know. Will still try to call them tomorrow...Kurt
You're a web developer for goodness' sake. You should know an IPv4 adress when you see one. And what is the default place where web developers write IP adresses and domain names? You guessed it - the browser's adress bar.But if your ISP tells you the router is protected by them, then I suppose you must either push them up to the speed you want, or if possible - change your ISP to a wired one that has the speed you want, and buy yourself your own wireless router for home if you really want a wireless home network.
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You're a web developer for goodness' sake.
Would not call myself this yet;-) Still so much I dunno have a clue... Thanks for all your inputs, was very helpful for me (as it looks I might have to change provider - they are not giving out the password and say now it much be an interfering devise from the neighbourhood that causes the problems, which has nothing to do with them.)Kurt
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